Cuisine labeled as "fusion" more often than not has a negative connotation, the results frequently muddled or contrived. This is not the case, though, in the hands of Raji Jallepalli. Not only is she deeply knowledgeable about the flavors of her native Indian cuisine, but also I swear she must have been a French aristocrat in a previous life! Her profound understanding of nuance and subtlety leads me to believe that she is well versed in the pleasures of French Haute cuisine. Yet her food has a vitality and a glorious, assertive edge that trumpets her Indian heritage. Most startling, however, about her complex favors and combinations, is the relative case with which they can be put together. This is the truest sign of a great chef: minimalist approach, maximal results!

I've heard some people call Raji the Spice Goddess, or Spice Queen, but I don't think those titles begin to do her justice. She doesn't just use spices; rather, their presence in her cuisine is an utterly intuitive expression. Raji is more like a Spice Poet with her use of cilantro, cinnamon, saffron, turmeric, ginger, cumin, and cardamom (among others), evidencing themselves with a lyricism, even a femininity, not with rugged, bold strikes. Yet the flavors and combinations are decidedly there.

The blending of French and Indian cuisine in her hands floats like notes from the late Yehudi Menuhin's violin. Hers becomes one cuisine-not a melding of two. It is completely natural; there is nothing contrived about it.

Another special quality of Raji's approach is her unbridled enthusiasm. You see, she came to her life as a chef later than most (indeed, after a successful career in medicine!), so her energy and passion still sizzle. In fact, the exuberance is translated right to the plate.

It excites me to know that we know have a collection of Raji's dishes in the written form. I'm certain I'll be "lifting" a few ideas from these pages for my own cuisine. After all-what are friends for?